The clock strikes midnight at the cathedral, and there is a collective cheer from the queues that form outside, too many by a long way to accommodate for Midnight Mas. It’s Christmas, and people flock to light candles and pray to Jesus to look after their friends and family.

d6086de322f98f66cc694f32ea284557_LWe are in Kolkata, until recently known by the British name Calcutta, and it is from

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this era that we still see strong signs of evidence as we take our morning walk through the back streets of Dum Dum. Dum Dum in the very north of the city has gained its name literally from the sounds of canons being tested at the armaments factory.

It was also the home to Jessops who ran the railways here and now leave huge empty spaces and overgrown tracks amongst the sprawling population that continue to live on the side of the railway. Our meanderings take us through many communities, past the hindu ‘village’ and local ‘tank’ and through leafy lanes until we come out by the side of the highroad to Delhi.

Here is a Bangladeshi muslim community surviving under the road and on the train sidings as the trucks and the trains pass them by unnoticed.

We head home and on the way pass more and more families using whatever little resources they have to make their homes and feed their children. One NGO has chosen today to bring their gifts of second hand clothes to the people here.

We near RBC Road, which by now feels like a five

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