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We Cab a Catch to Bag Bazaar Ghat and alight on the East side of the Ganga.

It is teeming with life. We

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sit on the launch pad soaking up some sunshine waiting for our young student from the Punjab, Partik, to join us.

I watch the kids throw heavy weights from long lengths of yellow rope into the lower depths of the dark water, magnets for shiny coins that have previously been offered up to the gods.

Eager disciples we follow Dr. Ghosh along the banks of the Hooghly.

Spirituality is oozing from every crack in the concrete, gods appear in all forms, shapes and sizes, and many accessories to adorn them during the several time daily rituals.

Boats are bringing in the sacred mud to Kumortuli – the place that breathes life into the idols, crafted by families of artists honed over many generations. They prepare for Saraswati, goddess of learning, coming home. She is there in various incarnations of straw, rough mud and smooth clay. It is too early now for her to blossom into a riot of colour and shiny stuff, her special day is nearly a month away.

We pass the largest burning Ghat in Kolkata, life and death intertwining on this riverbank, interchangeable.

And we proceed on, down the rail line and under Howrah Bridge. Down below we find spices, flowers, and guys striking deals in a whole trade generated by the Puja Industry devoted to the passage between life and death.

Above a steady line of humanity moves from one side of the river to the other, just as now, we, like Hades, will cross that vast expanse of murky water by boat.

As the sun sets on another day, like every other day.

.