954fb0ebf1d84fb921bfb0b6e045d57f_MIt is a wet monday morning and we decide to walk from Dum Dum to Kurmatuli, which takes us through some very old and largely delapidated areas of North Kolkata. This city is made upon layers and layers of different histories and all of them seem to remain present, creating a feeling of simultaneously existing in different eras.

Now there are many ways to try and navigate through the chaos, from the recently completed Metro, which is surprisingly under used, to overground trains, ambassador taxis, endless types of buses and minibuses and a tram that looks as though it wouldn’t be able to hold anyone without collapse.

There are still a wide range of rickshaws, auto, cycle and hand-pulled that are determined to stay. After a rather random route where we encounter all of the above we arrive in Shyam Bazaar, famously highlighted by the statue of one of India’s major freedom fighters;

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Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose who was determined to kick the British out via an armed struggle. Needless to say one day he mysteriously disappeared.

We enter through the small lanes of Kurmatuli, weaving our way through saris hanging out, desperately failing to dry in the damp climate. A community of artists stretching back as far as anyone can remember spend their lives collecting clay

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from the Ganga and bringing the gods alive for the many pujas that take place throughout the year.

Ma Durga, my personal favourite looks out at me with her all seeing eyes, and I know she’ll be watching over me, as I leave her home city, and also in some ways mine too.

Bye bye Kolkata and my Bengali family. Ami Aschi.